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ARGOLIDA
The magic of the shores of the
Argolid, the bald mountains, golden valleys, the grandeur of the
monuments and the eternal quality of its myths will leave a lasting
impression. On this "flaming red Argive earth" celebrated by
the poet, "where the poppy flames still brighter", you'll hear
the most sublime voices of the Greek land - Homer, Aeschylus, Sophocles.
History
The Argolid was the heart of
Greece from 1600 to 1100 B.C. under the Mycenaeans. With their decline,
the Dorians controlled the fate of the region until the conquest of the
country by the Romans. During the Byzantine era the Argolid shared the
fortune of the rest of the Peloponnese. It was ruled by the Franks and
surrendered to the Turks in 1460, Nafplio, however, remained in Venetian
hands until 1540. Nafplio was the capital of the newly formed Greek
state from 1828 to 1834, when this role passed to Athens.
The district
In this little tour the approach
to the district of Argos starts in the south, at Arcadian Astros. The
little village of Mili is not far away. Ten km. further north are the
ruins of ancient Lerna, where Herakles is said to have killed the Hydra,
a dragon with the body of a snake and nine heads. Passing sometimes
through valleys filled with vines and olive groves sometimes along the
turquoise sea, the road leads to Nea Kios, a coastal town built at the
back of the bay of Nafplio. Tranquillity reigns on this sandy, shallow
seashore. Here on the last Sunday before Lent there is a festival with
free food and wine.
The coast road continues on to Nauplia (Nafplio), capital of the
prefecture and one of the lovellest towns in all Greece. The old city
with its neoclassic houses, picturesque streets, wooden balconies with
cascading flowers, Turkish fountains, Constitution (Syntagma) Square
with its fascinating mosques and outdoor cafe tables is like a fairy
land. Here, after centuries of struggle, happiness has finally settled.
You feel like immersing yourself in its history, burrowing into its past
- the house of the Regent Mauer, the Military Academy, it operates as a
military Museum, the Army Ministry, Greece's first high school,
Parliament House, St. Spyridon's, the church where Kapodistrias, the
first governor of Greece, was assassinated. And the fairy tale world
continues, whether you climb up the 857 steps to the Venetian fortress
of Palamidi crowning the city, wander round the battlements of
Acronafpia or pop over to the fortified islet, Bourtzi, afloat in
the middle of the bay. A new sight or sensation keeps coming across your
path. Nafplio is full of the joy of life: it is the nobility and calm
found in Minoan frescoes; it is Syntagma Square, which strikes you as
more gracious and delightful every time you see it; it is the little
restaurants on the waterfront, the open-air cinemas, the bars and the
music that every evening takes you closer to the people, the sea and the
stars. In Syntagma Square the Archaeological Museum, with its finds from
various periods and frescoes from Mycenae (Mikines) and Assini, is
housed in an imposing Venetian building, while the Folk Art Museum, on
Vas. Alexandrou street, occupies a neoclassical house.
By the sea
The first seaside village you meet on leaving Nafplio is Tolo,
situated on a picturesque bay. Its seafood tavernas overlook the water.
You take a bite and inhale the salt breeze. You listen to the put-put of
the little mortboats chugging over to the islet of Romvi opposite. The
more romantic travellers will want to head for Assini, which inspired
one of Nobel prize-winning poet George Seferis' most beautiful poems. A
sheer rock at the water's edge adorned with remnants of the distant
past. Here stood the acropolis of ancient Assini mentioned by the first
Greek poet, Homer.
Ten km. from Nafplio the road
passes through the coastal village of Drepano, drenched in orange and
lemon trees, and Vivari, with its ruined Venetian castle. The view from
here is enchanting. Next the road leads on to the much frequented
villages of Kandia and Salandi, winding up in Kilada, a peaceful fishing
village at the head of a closed bay. Just outside the village, one can
see the large cave of Frahthi where mesolithic artefacts were found. Not
far from Kilada - inland - the farming town of Kranidi stands out,
spread out over the hillside of Agia Anna. The hill is sprinkled with
Byzantine monasteries.
Seven km. after Kranidi the road leads to Porto Heli, a big
summer resort on a closed protected bay with a natural harbour. Brightly
painted caiques and trawlers, little sailboats and motorboats repose in
the harbour. Customers at the seafood tavernas are ordering fried and
grilled fish, shrimp, octopus, and a big country salad. At midday Porto
Heli is humming with people. The shouts and laughter mingle with the
aromas wafting up from the coals. It's perpetual festival for people who
delight in this miracle of nature, the Argolid perfumed by the sea, rich
in fields, harbours and beaches; the Argolid with its translucent waters
that reflect ancient and modern dreams; the Argolid, whose every village
is a treat for the eye. Kosta, Ermioni, Thermissia, Plepi, Metohi, and
Galatas with the dozens of lemon trees. The Argolid dream world. The
first lights from the shores of the Saronic islands across the way
appear in the twilight. Taking the coast road north will bring you to
lush Galata, just a stone's throw from the Argosaronic island of Poros.
The narrow strait that separates them is alive with small boats ferrying
passengers between island and mainland. Further north, at the almost
spherical peninsula of Methana, lies the spa of that name, famous since
antiquity for its hot sulphurous and saline springs. Methana's waters
are recommended in the treatment of dermatological, rheumatoid and
neurological ailments. Visitor to Methana will find ample accommodation
as well as numerous tavernas, restaurants, bars, discos and other
facilities for tourists. The crystalline sea and lovely beaches attract
holidaymakers all summer long. The town is linked year round with
Piraeus by ferry and in summer by several hydrofoils (from Zea marina)
per day. This is the magical Argolid. The first lights from the shores
of the Saronic islands start twinkling in the dusk.
Tirins
From Nafplio the road passes
through a fertile, verdant valley to arrive at the village of Tirins.
The ruins of the fortress-palace of Tirins lie just off the road. Its
cyclopean walls are older than those of Mycenae. The ancients believed
that these walls were built by the Cyclops, creatures with superhuman
powers. Homer mentions the "wall-girt" cities that took part
in the Trojan War. Looking at these massive walls - the biggest boulders
weigh 13 tons each - one imagines that any attempt at besieging them
must have been in vain. Tirins flourished up to 1200 B.C., when the
acropolis was destroyed by fire. In the enclosure below the acropolis
are the famous tunnels (secret cisterns), among the most interesting
architectural achievements of the period. The palace with the royal
throne room at its centre occupied the highest point on the acropolis.
Fragments of wall paintings testifying to the wealth and luxury of the
palace at Tirins are on display in the archaeological museums of Nafplio
and Athens.
Argos,
Midea, Mycenae
From Tirins the road continues
through the Argolid valley to Argos itself. Men and women are working in
the fields, while earthy odours and the buzzing of a bee accompany you.
Farmers tending rickety roadside stands sell their wares to passers-by -
juicy grapes, oranges and apricots depending on the season. The scenery
alternates between grapevines, olive groves and apricot orchards. Today
the historic Peloponnesian city of Argos is the agricultural and
commercial centre of the prefecture. The city has retained some
neoclassical buildings, the neoclassical market place and the army
barracks dating from the time of Kapodistrias. The archaeological museum
on Vas. Olga street has an interesting collection of local finds. After
the destruction of Mycenae (Mikines) and Tirins, Argos began to develop,
reaching its peak as one of Greece's most powerful cities in the 7th
century B.C. Large works produced in the city's famous sculpture studios
decorated temples and sanctuaries. The visitor will find some of them,
weathered by time, in the ancient agora (on the road to Tripolis).
Northwest of Argos, the citadel of Larissa stands on the crest of a low
mountain, it is worth a visit - an asphalted road goes all the way up -
to admire the Frankish and Venetian fortifications as well as the view,
which is especially impressive at sunset, when the colours run riot.
There is a monastery on the hillside, the Virgin Concealed or of the
Rock. South of Argos the road leads to Kefalari, a lush area with
several springs. The spreading plane trees, running water and tavernas
will hold you in their grasp for hours by offering those simple Greek
pleasures: shade, fresh air, good food and relaxation. To the east
another road goes to the village of Merbaka (Agia Triada), with its 12th
century Byzantine church, and from there on to the hamlets of Manesi and
Dendra. From Dendra a path takes you to the top of a hill and the
Mycenaean acropolis of Midea. Here too you will find huge cyclopean
walls. According to myth, the walls at Mycenae (Mikines), Tirins and
Midea were built by a tribe of men descended from the Cyclops. Nine km.
outside Argos the road leads to the slopes of Mt. Evvia where, built on
an outcropping, stand the ruins of the Heraion (Ireon), dedicated to
Hera, one of the most important sanctuaries of antiquity.In the
uncluttered beauty of the scenery, emotions and memories connected with
the worship of the goddess still linger.
The Mycenaean treasure
The road leads from the Heraion to Mycenae (Mikines) "rich in
gold". The acropolis reveals itself in the heart of a landscape
that is barren to the north, a bit tamer towards the south. A grey mound
of rock with the marks of the Cyclops upon it. One has to touch these
gigantic rough-hewn slabs in order to comprehend the deep sense of
security they offered the Mycenaeans. Within these walls the leaders
heaped the booty from their extended wars, gold and jewels, bowls and
purple rugs. Mycenae was the most powerful, brilliant and sovereign
influence in Greece up to 1100 B.C. when it was destroyed by fire.
Centuries later the tragic poets Aeschylus and Sophocles brought it back
to life with the magic of their verses. One enters the acropolis through
the Lion Gate, the oldest example of monumental sculpture in Europe. A
secondary entrance, built in the same style, exists in the north side.
Inside the walls excavations have uncovered the palace complex, grave
circle A with six royal tombs, courtiers' houses, sanctuaries and other
important buildings. Outside the acropolis lie the ruins of private
houses. Grave Circle B with 14 royal tombs and 12 tombs of private
citizens. On the nearby hill of Panayitsa archaeologists brought to
light the most stunning edifice of Mycenaean architecture, the Treasure
of Atreus, also known as the beehive tomb of Agamemnon. Most of the more
exceptional finds from the site are on exhibit in the National
Archaeological Museum in Athens. These include frescoes, gold jewellery,
and the gold mask said to have belonged to Agamemnon, among other
priceless pieces.
Epidaurus
The road from Nafplio to Epidaurus (Epidavros) passes through vineyards
and age-old olive groves with the mountains looming hazily in the
distance, but for Mt. Arahneo, which rises directly above Epidaurus.
Arahneo - that's just how Aeschylus called it in his tragedy, Agamemnon.
The breeze carries waves of sweet fragrances from the woods, resin and
turpentine. On a hillside, within the sanctuary, lies the theatre of
Epidaurus (3rd c. B.C.), the most famous and best preserved of all the
ancient theatres in Greece. Built of limestone, it can seat 12,000
spectators. Every summer it comes alive. Attending a performance of
ancient drama in this theatre is almost a mystical experience. Never to
be forgotten. A catharsis of the soul. At Epidaurus the actors don't
need to shout or speak loudly. The accoustics are so perfect that the
merest whisper can be heard in the last row. The entrance to the
sanctuary lies to the north of the theatre. Asklepios was worshipped
here. Though he was a god, Zeus struck him down with his thunderbolt
because he wanted to destroy death. Among the ruins, one can see the
foundations of the temple of Asklepios (Doric, 4th c. B.C.), the guest
house, the tholos, the Abaton or sleeping porch, the temples of Artemis
and Themis, the gymnasion etc. The museum is near the entrance to the
site and contains various artefacts plus a helpful model of what the
sanctuary must have looked like. The town on ancient Epidaurus occupied
the same location as the present village of Palia Epidavros (Old
Epidaurus), a seaside settlement with a small harbour, nestled in a
plain thick with olive and orange trees, rimmed with scenic beaches and
several tavernas. Seven km. further north, at the foot of Mt. Akros, the
road arrives at Nea Epidavros (New Epidaurus), an inland village and
then proceeds several km. on to the lonely monastery of Agnounda with
its Byzantine frescoes. West of Nea Epidavros, you come to Ligourio, a
modern market town much frequented by tourists. There are tavernas
everywhere you look, and coaches, cars and motorbikes. Over the wind
waft tempting smells of roasting lamb and kokoretsi. Theatre buffs and
lovers of archaeology from all corners of the globe gather here to eat
and chat under a starry sky. Carefree crickets are trilling in the
trees. This land is an endless song. This is where out travelling
through the Peloponnese, the old and the new one, ends.
How to get there
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