Evia (Euboea)

The island is the second largest in Greece, after Crete. Long and narrow, it stretches over the Aegean Sea very close alongside the shores of Mainland Greece, separated from it by the Gulf of Euboea and the famous Evripos Straits.

A main highway and ferry-boats from several terminals form the links with this island space which is a centre of attraction for those seeking natural beauty and scenic variety. There is something of interest to be seen at every turn in Euboea. Towns brisk with tourist traffic or peaceful villages, apparently forgotten by time. There are large fertile valleys and wooded mountainsides where mountain climbers can enjoy themselves as much as those opting, instead, for the attractions of the seashores with their excellent sandy beaches, organized bathing facilities and charming secluded coves. Modern life thrives alongside splendidly preserved tradition. There are picturesque country fairs where genuine local customs survive. Euboea can promise and indeed offer its guests all this.

By road, Halkida, the island's capital, is accessible from a fork on the main Athens-Lamia highway. A swing bridge carries traffic across the narrow Evripos Straits with their tidal current which Aristotle tried hard to explain in ancient times. The name Halkida, taken by the town, which has been built over the site occupied by a very ancient city, is said to originate either from the copper which its inhabitants processed in olden times (Halkos means copper in Greek) or from the word "Halki" which means a form of shell, used in antiquity for dying red fabrics. The ancient city was a renowned trading centre which established several colonies and contained famous temples dedicated to Zeus, Apollo and the goddess Hera. The archaeological museum in the town contains notable exhibits such as the headless statue of the goddess Athena, the relief of Dionysus, the abduction of Antiope by Theseus and others. The Byzantine basilica of Agia Paraskevi, located within the compound of the mediaeval fortress, contains coats of arms and inscriptions of the 14th century. The modern town has several hotels and its restaurants specialise in fish dishes.Halkida is the ideal starting point for an exploration of the whole island.

South-ward the road leads to Eretria which, in ancient times, was the second most important city on the island, after Halkida. It was a major maritime power and the standard of its intellectual activities was high. It was in Eretria that, in the 3rd century B.C., Menedimos, one of Plato's pupils, founded the Eretrian School of Philosophy. Excavations, undertaken in 1891, reveal many monuments and statues. Interesting objects for the visitor to see are the ancient baths, the remains of the Temple of Dafniforos Apollo, the Palaestra with its fine mosaic and the ancient theatre, unique in that it had a subterranean passage for use by the actors. The ancestral homes of several renowned seafarers still stand in the town. In the museum there are finds dating back to prehistoric, archaic, classic and hellenistic times. Eretria is also accessible by ferry-boat from Oropos.

The road from Halkida to Eretria passes by the fine Malakonta beach which has ample facilities for tourists and then goes through the village of Vassiliko which possesses distinctive local colour and a Venetian tower. Close by are the seaside settlements of Lefkanti and Kambos. Continuing South along the coastal road, on the shores of the Gulf of Euboea, one comes upon the township of Amarinthos which has a fine beach, tranquil surroundings and plenty of attractive fish dishes to offer. Nearby are the Byzantine churches of Metamorfossis and Kimissis Theotokou. At Vlihos there is a Macedonian grave.

Ano Vathia is a quaint village with its Byzantine church of Zoodochos Pighi and the monastery of Agios Nikolaos. Following along the foothills of Mt. Skliro, the road leads into the town of Aliveri with its spreading plain, its old tower and church of Agios Loukas. In the same district stands the church of Agios Nikolaos which contains well preserved Byzantine frescoes. At Aliveri there is a major electric power station.

Continuing South, the road comes upon the fork for Lepoura from which it leads to Karistos. The area is thick with pinewoods and, in the past, fossils of pre-historic animals were found there. Inland lies the township of Stira where lots of streams flow amid spreading plane trees. There is also an ancient citadel. Nea Stira is on the coast, along a peaceful bay which gives on to the Gulf of Euboea. It has well equipped bathing beach facilities. It is in this area that the "Dragon's Houses" ("Spilia tou Drakou") stand, consisting of huge, ancient blocks of stone. Further South is the village of Marmari.

All around are picturesque sites and excellent beaches. There is a ferry-boat service to Rafina. Offshore is the islet of Petali. Still further South, the road follows the foothills of Mt. Ochi, whose summit has an altitude of 1398 M., and leads to Karistos, a town with a very ancient history, said to have been built by the Dryopes. The Venetians named it Castel Rosso because of the red stone with which they built their fortress there. It still stands. Another site worth visiting is Palaiochora where there are remains of ancient buildings and the noteworthy Byzantine church of Taxiarchon. There is also the Agia Triada grotto with its spacious galleries. If one goes back to the Lepoura fork and takes the road leading North East, it will first skirt the well wooded Mt. Dirfi (altitude 1745 M.) which is the tallest mountain in Euboea. It then leads to the township of Kimi which stands high up on the cliff, 250 M. above sea level, like a balcony overlooking the Aegean Sea. It is a town built with characteristic island picturesqueness. Many of its houses retain their pure traditional architecture. Directly opposite is the island of Skyros. Recently the Educational and Cultural Association of Kimi founded the town's Folkloric Museum which is housed in a typical neo-classic building.The exhibits cover the period from the year 1800 A.D. to the period between the two Great World Wars. Kimi has been known since ancient times and it is said that the town existed even before the Trojan War. The surrounding district has numerous attractive villages, beaches, monasteries and plenty of woodland. At Honeftiko, set among poplar and fir trees, is a well-known medicinal spring. At Ano Potamia, there are remains of an ancient city. The convent of Sotiros is tucked away on a steep slope. There is also a small, weather-beaten fortress, built by the Franks. The convent of Agiou Haralambous Lefkon is also worth seeing. The Port of Kimi - called Paralia, 4 km. from the town - is the departure point for ships calling at the Sporades islands.

If one sets out North from Halkida, into the mountainous heart of the island of Euboea, the road leads to Steni Dirfios which is set in among plane trees with running streams, fir trees, pine trees and thick scrub which clings to the slopes of Mt. Dirfys. Both settlements of this village maintain their strict traditional character. It is the starting point for the climb to the alpine rest hut. Another very picturesque village in this area is Stropones. The outlet to the Aegean Sea from here is at Hiliadou which has a fine beach and a church of the Kimissis Theotokou. The main motor highway which traverses Northern Euboea goes past Nea Artaki, dotted with Tavernas which serve fish food as their speciality. Nearby is the church of Faneromeni. Psahna, an attractive village a little further on, is the gateway to the hinterland of Northern Euboea. Politika is next with its Byzantine church of the Theotokou. As the road begins to climb, the country becomes more wooded with plane trees, pine trees and firs. It is an astounding trip to the village of Prokopi with its church of Agios Ioannis Rossos which attracts numerous pilgrims. The large village of Mantoudi, beyond Prokopi, overlooks the plain of ancient Kirintha from a height. There are plane trees and pine trees everywhere. The road then descends the mountainside of Kandili and passes through picturesque villages such as Skepasti and Kehries. The road leads into Limni a really charming township with a long history and well preserved traditions whose white houses are reflected in the waters of the Gulf of Euboea. According to legend, this was the site of ancient Elimnion where the wedding of Zeus to the goddess Hera was held. The ancient temple was destroyed by earthquake.

Sites worth visiting are the excellent mosaics of the early christian church, the chapel of Zoodochos Pighi and the well known convent of Galataki, built over the site of an ancient temple of Poseidon amid very impressive scenery and an almost incredible solitude. The convent is occupied by nuns. There is also the attractive village of Rovies set in among olivegroves which stretch right down to the sea. In this area, in ancient times, there was the "infallible oracle" of the Selinountios Apollo. In the same area stands the monastery of Osiou David Geronta which contains fine 17th century frescoes. Driving on in the direction of the Aegean seaboard, the road leads into Agia Ana, also known as Ayana which is really one of the most charming parts of all Euboea as it retains its B traditional style, its customs and country fairs. The neighbouring Angali beach is also attractive with its extensive sands. The road then leads to Artemision which is a Cape looking across the straits towards Mt. Pelion. Its ancient history is linked to the goddess Artemis who was supposed to go there hunting. There are remains of a temple dedicated to her. Other sites worth seeing are the churches of Agia Paraskevi and Agios Georgios.

Slightly further North is the picturesque village of Pefki set in a pine forest. It has a fine beach. The road then traverses the peaceful and fertile plain of Istiea which Homer described as "polystafyllon" (land of the many vines). According to legend, this is where the sacred bulls of the goddess Hera grazed. Orei, which is the port for Istiea, has characteristics entirely peculiar to itself with a Frankish fortress separating the town into two parts. To the West stand the ruins of another castle built upon the site of an earlier citadel. In the township there is the Byzantine church of Agios Vasilios. Orei owe its importance to its dominating geographical position where, since olden times, it has been astride the channel which separates Euboea from the coast of Phthiotida, opposite. Another, nearby pleasant seaside spot is Agiokambos with tavernas which specialise in fish dishes. Its port is the starting point for the ferry-boats to Glifa on the opposite coast.

Turning back towards the Gulf of Euboea, the road leads to another important town on the island. This is the Edipsos spa, known since ancient times for its medicinal springs, mentioned by both Aristotle and Strabo and, nowadays one of the best known Greek holiday resorts. It flourished in Roman times. On a hill close to Edipsos, lie the remains of the ancient city. There are remains of Roman baths at Agii Anargyri and the Sylla Hot Springs ("Thermai") near the sea. To the Northwest of Edipsos there is attractive countryside. Gialtra is a picturesque village in well wooded surroundings with a good beach and natural medicinal springs. Its church of Theotokou has interesting frescoes. There is also Lihada, surrounded by forestland with its seaside settlement Agios Georgios close by. At Profitis Elias there is a cave with stalactites. An excursion to Paleochori is pleasant as the village is very green amid plane trees and running streams. At the Northwest point of the island there is the convent of Agios Georgios with a woodcarved altar screen and valuable relics.Throughout Euboea, traditions are preserved, as well as picturesque local customs and all the year round there are various local country fairs in villages and at monasteries with folkdancing, folksongs and meals of local specialities.

Useful Information about Evia

Communications
By Sea:

• Rafina - Karistos
• Rafina - Marmari (information from the Rafina Port Authority, Tel.: 0294/23300).
• Arkitsa - Edipsos (information from the Arkitsa Port Authority, Tel.: 0233/91290 and Edipsos Port Authority, Tel.: 0226/22464).
• Glifa - Agiokambos (information from the Glifa Port Authority, Tel.: 0238/51389).
• Agia Marina - Nea Stira and Agia Marina - Almiropotamos (information: Agia Marina, Tel.: 0294/63491).
• Oropos - Eretria (information: 0221/62201, Eretria Port Authority).
• Volos - Kimi (by the steamer of the Sporades islands coastal service).
• Kimi is also linked to the following ports: Agios Efstratios, Alonissos, Skopelos, Skiros, Kavala, Skiathos and Limnos. Information from the Kimi Port Authority, Tel.: 0222/22606.

By Road:

• Athens - Halkida
• Athens - Edipsos
• Athens - Kimi
• Athens - Aliveri
• Athens - Amarinthos
• Athens - Eretria
• Information from the KTEL Terminal Office in Athens, Tel.: 8317153.

By Rail:

• Athens to Halkida. Information from the OSE Larissis Railway Station, Tel.: 8213882 and the OSE Head Office at: 1, Karolou St. in Athens, Tel.: 5222491 and at No 6, Sina St., Tel.: 3624402/6.

Tourist Police Stations

• In Halkida, Tel.: 0221/83333, 24574, 22100.
• At Edipsos, 3, Okeanidon St., Tel.: 0226/22456.

Sports
Water skiing: There is a water skiing training centre at Halkida at the junction of Karaoli and Dimitriou St. No 1, Tel.: 0221/26456 and 25227, 22331 (Offices of the Halkida Maritime Club).

Winter Sports - Mountain Climbing: At Liri, on Mt. Dirfi, 42 km. from Halkida and at an altitude of 1150 m.there are ski lifts and a rest hut organized by the Greek Alpine Club. Information: Halkida, Tel.: 0221/25230, Rest Hut, Tel.: 0288/51285 and from the Hellenic Alpine Club at 7, Karagiorgi Servias St., Athens, Tel.: 3234555.

The Sporades Islands

Island scene: Across the shimmering water from the eastern coast of mainland Greece, lie the Sporades islands - Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonissos and Skyros.

Here the visitor can unwind and sense the languid tempo of island Greece with its orchards, sea and green hills. All four islands have a magic of their own which is truly varied: not just rock - ribbed coasts and ribbons of golden sands, but pine - perfumed air, incredible sunsets, and uninhibited fun in Greek tavernas on some waterfront.

Yachts mingle with fishing boats, and fishermen will tell you of unsuspected grottos and fishing spots teeming with fish. You can swimm, sail or spear-fish and at mealtimes enjoy the good local food and inexpensive wine. The seafood especially is remarkable - lobster, octopus and, most remarkable of all, enormous prawns often baked with cheese and fresh tomatoes. And even in the humblest taverna you can finish your meal with superb melon, watermelon, peaches, figs and grapes.

There is no planned entertainment in these Aegean islands. So a basic appetite for just enjoying swimming and lazying in the sun is essential, getting your supplementary pleasures from short sea trips by motor launch, fishing, or rambling at will. For fun after sunset the entertainment scene is informal yet lively. There is no best-dressed contest! Most of the hotels are open to non-residents and serve anything from morning coffee to coctails.

Climate: Judging by the bronzed islanders, and by the annual sunshine records, a summer of sun and cloudless skies is no excepation. April and May are fine, warm months with temperatures ranging from 55 - 75 oF. June, July and August are the warmest with temperatures reaching as high as 95 oF. September and October are both good months, warm with a clear atmosphere and temperatures up to 75 oF. In summer the northerly wind of the Aegean Sea, the Meltemi, gives the islands a briskness and clarity even greater than that of mainland Greece.

Accommodation: As the islands' popularity grows, so the tourist industry inevitably flourishes. There are a lot of hotels, but not enough for the tourist flow of the high season, so it is advisable to book early. There are, however, villas, and rooms to rent from individual families. For these you can contact the local tourist police.

Skiathos

(41 nautical miles from the town of Volos).

It's green, soft and idyllic, with some 70 sandy inlets, several bays and three harbours. Its highest wooded summit rises to 438 metres. Around the island there are no less than 9 smaller islands. Two of these, called Tsougries, lie across the main harbour offering safe anchorage to boats, with a small marina for yachts.

The principal town, also called Skiathos, was built in 1830 on two low hills. It is the hub of the tourist summer season, with several hotels, neat villas and rooms to let for any lenght of time. Of interest in the town is the home of the Greek writer, A. Papadiamantis, who immortalized Skiathos in his short stories.

There is a good road in Skiathos which hugs the southern coast with its many lovely bays, linking the town with Koukounaries - the famous pine grove - and the beach of Agia Eleni. Another road connects the town with Asselinos. A convenient way to get to know the island is by motor launch. They run at regular intervals to the more popular beaches for a moderate fare.

Food of all kinds, especially fruit and vegetables, are plentiful. If you prefer to eat out, there are tavernas and self-service restaurants. The nights in Skiathos are especially lively. After a day by the sea, visitors gravitate to one of the tavernas, cozy bars, or discotheques.

Beaches and Places of interest

Koukounaries, the fabulous pine grove after which the region is named. It fringes a long stretch of golden sand for 1,000 metres, and most of its 30 metre width is shaded by pines and shrubs. There are hotels, restaurants and refreshment stalls. You can get there by bus from the town (12 kms), or by motor launch. Behind the grove there is a lovely lagoon, wheat fields and olive groves. From Koukounaries you can walk to the beach of Agia Eleni, which faces the southern shores of Mt. Pelion. It is splendidly isolated and offers good fishing. Also from Koukounaries, it takes 40 min. on foot to reach a quite unspoilt strip of coast, Mandraki, also known as the port of Xerxes. Lalaria, is another famous beach with large pebbles on the N.E. side of the island, accessible from town by boat. The Kastro, or ancient walled town, lies two hours to the north of the town on foot. Accessible by motor boat as well. In the 16th century, the whole population moved to the impregnable rock which rises to the northeast of the town of Skiathos and built their Kastro. It stands on a rock projecting into the sea and overlooking a wild and jagged coast. A drawbridge was its only link with the rest of the island in the old days, but today it can be approached by climbing up some steps. Its walls once enclosed 300 houses and 22 churches. None of the houses remain, and of the two churches the Church of Christ is worth a visit for its icons and carved wooden screen. Excursions are organised in summer daily to the nearest island Skopelos and to Alonissos. There are also organised tours round the island by boat.

Tourist facilities

• Yacht harbour: Supply station and facilities for mooring, refueling and revictualling.
• Medical centre, Police station, Garage for light car repairs.
• Tourist Police: Tel. 0427/21111.
• Port Authority: Tel. 0427/22017.
• Festivities: July 26th, feast of Agia Paraskevi, with folk dances.
• Rentals: Cars, mopeds, boats.

Skopelos (58 nautical miles from Volos)

The beauty of this island is apparent even as one approaches it by ship: picturesque large and small bays, golden sands, slopes covered with olive trees punctuated with pleasant little huts, churches and monasteries, dazzling white in the sun. The chief town named after the island, Skopelos, climbs down daintily tier by tier in a semi - circle till it touches the shore - a beautiful vision in white. It is a seaport town with a local colour of itw own: cobbled narrow streets courtyards, filled with flowers, and gleaming rooftops in a fascinating variety of shapes. Many of the women, clinging faithfully to their island traditions, wear their local costume - a silk skirt embroidered with tiny flowers, a velvet short coat with wide flowing sleeves finely embroidered, and a gossamer - fine silk kerchief over their heads with justifiable pride. A visit to a Skopelos house is a pleasure in itself, not only for its interior decoration but also for the owner's hospitality.

Antiquities: Skopelos boasts a fair number of ancient ruins. Apparently, the island was a Cretan colony. Its first king and settler was Stafylos. His grave was discovered by the cove bearing his name in 1927. It contained weapons, a gold crown and funerary offerings, among other finds, all of which are housed in the Volos Museum. The 9th Century chapel of Agios Athanassios has been built on the ruins of an ancient temple. There are also the ruins of a venetian fortress, the Kastro, a vanage spot for a sweeping view all round.

Beaches and excursions: Skopelos has lovely beaches, shallow and safe waters ideal for children too; at Stafylos Cove, Limnonari - to which you cross by boat from Agnondas, at Panormos, a wind protected bay; at Milia and Elios; and at Loutraki, the Glossa port. For those who enjoy a shingly beach there are Agios Konstantinos, Sares, Kastri and Glisteri. Many of these beaches have pine trees reaching down to the sea. An also worth visiting place is the Tripiti grotto.

Monasteries and Churches: Though only a small island, Skopelos contains about 360 churches, chapels, monasteries and convents. The chief town alone has 123. The 12 white - washed convents, which dot the gentle hillsides date from the 17th and 18the centuries. Many of them contain real works of art: handcarved "reredos" (altar - screens), frescoes and icons. So do some of the monasteries and churches such as Christ Church, with its reredo of beautiful miniatures of saints and a gold - decorated chandelier from mount Athos. The church of Zooodohos Pigi is reputed to contain a miraculous icon painted by St. Luke the Evangelist.

Tourist facilities

• Police Station: Tel.: 0424/22235.
• Port Authority: Tel.: 0424/22180.
• Rentals: Cars, mopeds, boats.
• Local Products: Skopelos is famed for its prunes, while the Glossa region produces almonds. The nuns of the various convents produce loom - woven textiles, skirts and blouses and other fine articles.
• Popular Festival and Fairs: August 6th on Transfiguration Day and February 25th the feast day of the island's Patron Saint, Agios Riginos. Carnival with "Trata" procession.

Alonissos

(62 nautical miles from Volos)

An oblong island with a precipitous northwestern coastline, and a hilly landscape. The inhabitants work in the fields on the small but fertile plains, or else are shepherds and seamen. The centre of the island has submerged, leaving two small islets and several smaller ones still. A rock mass called Psathoura is all that remains of ancient Alonissos.

Exploring Alonissos: The sea round Alonissos has been declared as a "Marine conservation Park" where all human intervention is forbidden. The best way of getting about is by motor boats. These ply between the islands and the various beaches and excursion sites.

Beaches: Kokkinokastro, 30 min. by caique from Patitiri, the small port of Alonissos. Hrissi Milia, Steni Vala, Kalamakia, Agios Dimitrios offer excellent bathing. On some of the surrounding, virtually uninhabited isles there are isolated, good beaches but no amenities.

Antiquites: At Kokkinokastro can be seen the remains of the ancient city walls, pot shards, tombstones and graves. It is thought that this is the site of ancient Ikos. At Ai-Dimitris there are ruins of an unknown ancient city, and at Agios Petros there is a sunken byzantine ship (1200 A.D.).On the island of Gioura you will find Cyclop's Cave, decorated with varicoloured stalactites and stalagmites. Psathoura has remains of an ancient city, most of which lie submerged. The light-house on rocky Psathoura is one of the most powerful of the Aegean Sea.

Tourist facilities

Thanks to private initiative there are guest houses and rooms to rent as well as bungalows and small hotels. Other services include a medical centre, Customs, Police Station.

• Police Station: Tel.: 0424/65205.
• Rentals: Mopeds, boats.
• Port Authority: Tel.: 0424/65595.

Skyros

(25 nautical miles from Kimi, in Euboea and 118 nautical miles from Piraeus. Are 208 sq. Kms.)

The island's main port is Linaria. There are many lovely beaches and low mountains to explore, caves for some underwater fishing, and even ponies - the only ones in Greece. At the tavernas you can savour fresh fish, lobster and the local cheeses.

The town of Skyros, also called "Horio" locally, clambers up a hill in a white half circle, like an ancient theatre. On its top stood an ancient acropolis, one of the best Bholds in the Aegean. In Byzantine times it turned into a fortress. There are remains of Byzantine and chiefly Venetian fortifications to be seen today on the site. According to legend, it was on this ancient acropolis that Thetis hid her soon Achilles, where, dressed as a girl, he was brought up as one of King Lycomedes' daughters in order to escape the Trojan War. Theseus is also supposed to have met his death here. Under the castle there is the monastery of Saint George (Ai Giorgis Skirianos) founded in 962 and dominating the whole island. In Horio, there are two interesting museums: an archaeological as well as an historical and folkloric one. Every skyrian house down to the poorest, is a living museum of popular art, with beautiful handcarved furniture, embroideries, baskets and all kinds of handicrafts. Also of great interest is the original architecture of the houses, with their pebbled entrances, picturesque roofs, hearth and other impressive features. In the folk art shops you will be able to find beautifully hand-carved stools, embroidered articles, hand-woven materials, rugs, original clay and copper utensils, chests and furniture.

Beaches and excursions: Skyros can boast a lot of fine sandy beaches with excellent crystal clear waters. Having as a starting point the Xenia Hotel, you can go swimming to the very near Magazia Beach and Molos or wald further along the same shore as far as Girismata.The more distant beaches of Ahili, Aspous, Kalamitsa, Tris Boukes (where the grave of the English poet Ruppert Brook), Pefkos, Kyra Panagia, Atsitsa and Aherounes offer excellent bathing and can be reached by car. Especially in Atsitsa and Pefkos (which menas Pine) the deep green of the pine trees mingle with the blue waters.In most of these places you will find small tavernas by the sea offering fresh fish, local wine and some of the island's delicacies. In summer months cruises round the island with small boats are organised and it is very interesting to follow one of them and see the variety of the coast as well as attractive sea caves.

Tourist facilities

• Festivities: Carnival celebrations with folk dances in local costumes. Skyrian wedding.
• Public services: Medical centre, drugstores, filling stations, taxis, bank, Post Office, Telecommunications centre.
• Police station: Tel. 0222/91274.
• Port Authority: Tel. 0222/91475.

How to Reach the Islands

By ferry boat:

Departing from:

• Agios Konstantinos (166th km on the Athens - Lamia highway), to Skiathos, Skopelos, Glossa (Skopelos) Alonissos.
  Information: Tel.: 0235/31920, 31989. Direct conection from Athens by bus.
  Information: Tel.: 4172415, 3632575. Main offices of the Bus Company.
  Information: Tel.: 8317758.
  
• From Kimi to Skyros: Information: Tel.: 0222/22020.
• From Kimi to Alonissos: (during Summer season only) Information: Tel.: 0222/22825, 22601.
• From Volos to Skyros, Skopelos, Glossa (Skopelos) Alonissos, Information: Tel.: 0421/38888.

By Hydrofoil craft (Flying Dolphins):

• From Ag. Konstantinos to Skiathos, Skopelos, Glossa (Skopelos), Alonissos. Information: Tel.: 0235/31614, 31874.
• From Volos to Skiathos, Skopelos, Gloss (Skopelos), Alonissos, Skiros. Information: Tel.: 0421/39786.