ITHAKA
And even today, once you’ve been to Ithaca, it’s
difficult to forget this small, mountainous island with its captivating coves that conjure
up some earthly paradise. The capital and largest settlement is Ithaca or Vathi; its red-roofed delightful houses set amidst enchanting scenery at the end of the deep closed bay of Molos. Taking the capital as a starting point, it’s easy to get to know the island’s landmarks.
Also worth visiting is the medieval Monastery of the Archangels at Perahori. North of the capital and 600 metres above sea level, the
Kathara Monastery (Moni Katharon) has a unique view of the island from its bell tower. On
the horizon you can make out the mountains of Akarnania, the Echinades islets, the peaks
of Zakinthos, the eastern coast of Cephalonia and even the entrance to the Gulf of Patras.
Stavros, a village 17 Kilometres northwest of Ithaca, is a good base from which to explore the northern section of the island. About 1 kilometre north of Stavros is Pelikata; excavations on this hillside between the bays of Polis and frikes brought to light remains of a small Bronze Age settlement. The finds unearthed there reinforce the theory that the ancient city of Ithaca lies somewhere in the vicinity. Kioni and Frikes, typically Ionian villages, on the northeast coast are unspoilt, wonderful places for a short excursion or an extended sojourn. Ithaca offers lovely beaches for bathing, caves for exploring and uncrowded hamlets where noisy nightlife is unheard of. “When you set out for Ithaca”, wrote the poet of Constantine Kavafis. He was referring to Ithaca as one’s ultimate destination. Thus, Ithaca, this verdant Ionian island, may become your
own favorite place, a place that draws you back year after year, when you plan your summer
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Throughout the ages Ithaca has been known as
the home of Odysseus. For years Homer’s hero wandered before he finally returned to his
island kingdom. Though he visited beautiful, exotic, far-flung lands, Ithaca never left
his mind for the moment.
Ithaca is separated from
Cephalonia by a channel some 2 to 4 Kilometres wide. The west coast of the island is steep
and almost barren in contrast to the green, gentle shoreline on the east.
Three kilometres to the northwest lies the
so-called Cave of the Nymphs (Nimfon Cave). Here according to the myth, Odysseus hid the
gifts bestowed upon him by the Phaeacians who deposited him upon Ithaca’s shores ten
long years after the end of the Trojan War.
The bay of Polis to the west is
the site of another cave (Loizos’ cave). This one yielded up sherds on which were carved
inscriptions testifying to the worship of Artemis, Hera and Athena. Even more interesting,
in the cave were also found recently twelve tripods similar to the other that the
Phaeacians were supposed to have given to Odysseus.